Oct 27, 2009

Making the cut: 'Top Chef' talent search

published by Metromix and in the Chicago Red Eye 10/26/09

Finding chefs with the right combination of talent and personality to compete on “Top Chef” can’t be an easy task. So with reps in town scouting talent for Season 7 of the Bravo show (open casting call 10 a.m.-2 p.m. Monday at Wells on Wells), we figured we’d lend a hand.

And who better to assist than our very own Chicago lineup of past “Top Chef” contestants and guest judges? We asked Stephanie Izard, Radhika Desai, Art Smith and others who they’d put on the show, given the chance, then challenged them to devise a hypothetical challenge to ensure their top picks would have what it takes to make Chicago proud.


Stephanie Izard, winner, “Top Chef” Season 4

Chicago nominee: Chris Pandel (The Bristol)

Why he’d make the cut: He has a great personality, and he’s cute, young and has a successful restaurant story.

Evaluation challenge: This is a challenge I wish I could have done when I was on the show: I’d like to bring everyone to the beach and make them go snorkeling for conches. They’d have to bring them back, crack them open and cook them. I just love snorkeling.


Art Smith, contestant, “Top Chef Masters”

Chicago nominee: Rick Gresh (David Burke's Primehouse)

Why he’d make the cut: He has a lot of charisma and a lot of energy. He knows how to be pretty when it’s not a pretty situation … to keep his cool. Also, he cooks food that has a very Americana feel to it, and people who have cooked very Americana foods have fared well. The more abstract it is, the less likely it is to survive.

Evaluation challenge:
The one I thought was the most challenging for me: the vegan challenge. [Gresh] is the type to be able to blow out a burger, but to cook for someone who has too many allergies to count is a tough one.


Grant Achatz, guest judge, “Top Chef” Season 5

Chicago nominees: Matt Chasseur and David Beran (Achatz’s sous chef and chef de cuisine at Alinea)

Why they’d made the cut: The show isn’t just about cooking—you have to have the personality and so forth. They’re both highly competitive and super creative and, obviously, what we do every night is cook under immense pressure, which is just like the show. [But] when I put pressure on them, it's a totally different situation than when you have four cameras on you.

Evaluation challenge: These guys are used to having the best equipment and kitchens, so I’d take them out of their comfort zone and hand them a TV dinner and tell them to rework it to make it servable, or take away their equipment and make them use a microwave or no equipment at all.


Radhika Desai, contestant, “Top Chef” Season 5

Chicago nominees: Troy Graves (Eve) and Rick Gresh

Why they’d make the cut: Troy Graves is an amazing chef. I’ve had nothing but delicious food at his restaurant. … Rick Gresh is great. He’s got a funny personality. They have the combination of skill, personality and “appeal.”

Evaluation challenge: Give them a limited number of ingredients and ask them to come up with an amazing dish that represents them as chefs and is also something the judges will appreciate.



Rick Tramonto, guest judge, “Top Chef” Season 4

Chicago nominees: Chris Pandel and Jared Van Camp (Old Town Social)

Why they’d make the cut: Chris is just a young, brilliant, up-and-coming talent. And I think Jared is cut from the same cloth: brilliant food, brilliant chef, really shows the spirit of the cuisine. He has a great sense of humor and loves pig.

Evaluation challenge: Put them in a city they don’t know—maybe dump them in the middle of some farmer’s market in Montreal or Dallas—and have them shop and cook a three- or four-course meal for judges.


Valerie Bolon, contestant, “Top Chef” Season 4

Chicago challenger: Nick Lacasse (The Drawing Room)

Why he'd make the cut: He's a great chef, his food is really tasty, and he's kind of a goof—I think they look for people who are off the beaten path personality-wise. He has that great combination of being a great cook along with a unique personality. I think it takes someone who is tough, but interesting and also a bit crazy—as most chefs are—to be intrigued by the challenges of the show.

Evaluation challenge: That's a tough one. Honestly [the producers] come up with some crazy things. I would want to watch him do whatever the show would throw at him.


Gale Gand, guest judge, "Top Chef" Season 4

Chicago nominees: Chris Pandel and Jared Van Camp

Why they'd make the cut: They can both think spontaneously on their feet and are great cooks who love creating at the stoves.

Evaluation challenge: A pig competition; then a fish and pasta one; then a dessert challenge. They all require really different skills, sensitivities and knowledge.


Takashi Yagihashi, guest judge, "Top Chef" Season 6


Chicago nominee: John Hogan (Keefer's)

Why he'd make the cut: John is the ringleader of chefs in Chicago. Everyone in the Chicago culinary world knows and respects John.

Evaluation challenge: Something John would not be so familiar with ... I would have him cook traditional Japanese food.

Read the full article here.

Oct 22, 2009

Coffeehouse bars

published by Metromix on 10/22/09 and in the Chicago Red Eye on 10/23/09

During the day, our No. 1 vice is coffee. After dark, we’d rather get our buzz from something a little more potent. And sometimes we like to mix it up with a martini at noon and a mocha at midnight. It’s the rare establishment that caters to our every need, but a handful of places seem to be catching on. These casual cafes provide just the right balance of beans and booze, sometimes even in the same glass.

Pure
The vibe:
Lined with TVs showcasing sports, this casual West Rogers Park cafe is a good bet if you’re looking to catch up with friends—but not if you’re cramming for a final exam.
The coffee: Illy espresso drinks, including the Pure Frenchman ($3), a vanilla-hazelnut latte topped with whipped cream and chocolate
The booze: Limited selection of beer, wine and liquor, including some cocktails such as a pomegranate martini ($11), featuring Grey Goose vodka, Pama pomegranate liqueur, sour mix and cranberry juice
Best of both worlds: Peppermint O’Patty ($5.50), a refreshingly sweet blend of espresso, mint syrup, Baileys and Ghirardelli chocolate

Scarlet
The vibe:
Recently reopened after a fire in February, this revamped Boystown lounge now provides a social spot complete with free Wi-Fi during the day before becoming a party destination in the evening.
The coffee: Unlimited Metropolis drip coffee for $2 until 8 p.m.; by request only after 8 p.m. Add flavored schnapps to your brew for $1.50 Monday-Friday.
The booze: Full bar serving cocktails such as the Maroon, aka “Trail Mix” ($11), a sweet, nutty blend of Frangelico, Grand Marnier and cranberry juice
Best of both worlds: The Au Laid ($9), made with tequila, iced coffee and butterscotch schnapps

Cafe Wha Who?
The vibe:
This boho River North cafe-bar supports the local arts scene by hosting gallery openings, live music events and poetry readings. It’s also a comfy spot to
catch up on a good book.
The coffee: Espresso bar (drinks run $2-$3.75) stocked with coffee from local roaster Star Lounge Coffee Company, 2521 W. Chicago Ave.
The booze: Full selection of liquor, beer and wine (drinks run $6-$8); no specialty cocktail list, but Wha Who shares ownership with Red Kiva, so we doubt they’ll hold out on us for too long.
Best of both worlds: The Chiaroscuro ($9), a light-and-dark layering of Absolut Vanilia, espresso and Godiva white chocolate liqueur. You won’t find it on the menu, so be sure to ask for it by name.

Three Peas Art Lounge
The vibe:
Tucked away on a quiet South Loop side street, this cozy cafe-bar-gallery feels like a home away from home, complete with plush armchairs, free WiFi and a flat-screen TV.
The coffee: Metropolis coffee and loose teas
The booze: Full bar available starting at noon. Order a beer and receive complimentary bar snacks.
Best of both worlds: The CB2 ($8), made with coffee, Bacardi and Baileys. It’s not on the menu, but regulars know to ask for it.

Little Branch Cafe
The vibe:
This cafe is big with its South Loop neighbors. It got its start as a coffee shop then branched out into a popular brunch and lunch destination. Since getting its liquor license, it’s also earned a following for cocktails.
The coffee: Full-service espresso bar featuring Metropolis coffee and custom espresso drinks such as the chocolate-covered cherry mocha ($3.25).
The booze: Fully-stocked bar turning out drinks like the Rosebud ($8), citrusy blend of Absolut Citron, triple sec and fresh-squeezed grapefruit and lime juice. Look for fall drinks such as hot wine and spiked cider soon.
Best of both worlds: Little Branch hot buttered rum ($8), made with dark rum, maple syrup, steamed milk and nutmeg

Read the full article here.

Oct 8, 2009

New Sushi

published on Metromix and the Chicago Red Eye 9/25/09

Sushi spots come and sushi spots go, but every now and then, Chicago really gets on a roll. With at least a half-dozen new sushi restaurants opening in the last few months alone, we're working toward a sushi tsunami. But what's right for date night and what deserves to make your delivery rotation? Here's a look at what to expect.

Blue Ocean
Modern and more date-worthy than a run-of-the-mill sit-down spot-but not so outrageously priced you'll feel like your wallet's plunging to the ocean floor-this week-old Ravenswood restaurant features more than 30 rolls in a contemporary, lounge-like setting.
Don't miss: Blue Ocean roll ($13, inset), featuring lightly battered spicy tuna and cream cheese with avocado, asparagus, shrimp, wasabi tobiko and tempura crunch, all wrapped in a soybean sheet and drizzled with creamy wasabi and unagi sauce.
Dinner for two: $35-$45
Booze: BYOB with no corkage fee for now. Come late October, they hope to have a full bar in place and a small retail store near the entry, where wine and sake will be available for purchase, either for carryout or for BYOB at the restaurant.
Delivery: No

Kyu Sushi
Nine is the lucky number at this casual East Village sushi joint. Kyu, Japanese for the number nine, opened Sept. 9 and is off to a promising start. The cozy 25-seat space is good for a laid-back date or a quick dinner when a mid-week craving hits.
Don't miss: Dark Knight roll ($11), stuffed with tuna, mango, avocado and spicy mayo and topped with black tobiko and mango sauce.
Dinner for two: $25-$35
Booze: BYOB, no corkage fee
Delivery: Yes, $2 delivery fee.

Mio Bento
When you need a sushi fix fast, this 2-month-old, mom-and-pop-owned North Center sushi spot is there for you. It's all about traditional Japanese favorites at low prices, with quick 'n' easy counter service.
Don't miss: Sushicago roll ($8). East meets Midwest in this roll of shrimp tempura, avocado and sweet crab topped with a blend of spicy house-made sauces.
Dinner for two: $20-$25
Booze: BYOB, no corkage fee
Delivery: Coming soon

Hello Sushi Bar and Thai Cuisine
Got someone in your group who's not keen on raw fish? This 2-week-old Edgewater spot mixes Japanese and Thai, creating a casual haven for those with timid palates while leaving just enough creative options to pique the interest of more adventurous eaters.
Don't miss: Tiger roll ($11.25), a ferocious mix of crab meat and shrimp tempura topped with spicy tuna and avocado.
Dinner for two: $25-$35
Booze: BYOB, no corkage fee
Delivery: Yes, $2 fee and $10 minimum.

Hot Woks Cool Sushi
A Loop location makes this 3-month-old spot a prime lunch destination. Bonus: You can get some culture while you're there. Since it's located across from the Art Institute, it's only fitting Lois and David Lee's second Hot Woks Cool Sushi location (the first is in Irving Park) doubles as an art gallery. While waiting for your order, feast your eyes on American- and Asian-influenced works described as "cultural evolution art," including a commissioned light piece from local artist Tracey Dear.
Don't miss: Obama-nami ($13.95), a patriotic roll that pays tribute to the Prez with deep-fried salmon, unagi, avocado and cream cheese with a hint of green pepper, all wrapped in rice with red tobiko and topped with a mini-American flag.
Dinner for two: $30-$40
Booze: Mostly microbrews, sakes and wines for now, with a Polynesian-inspired cocktail menu to come in early October.
Delivery: Yes, to a small delivery area. $2.50 fee and $15 minimum.

Carly Fisher is a Metromix special contributor. metromix@tribune.com

Read article here.

Aug 14, 2009

Nice Save

published on Metromix 8/14/09 and in the Chicago Red Eye on 8/17/09

If you and your friends are lamenting pay cuts or spending daytime hours surfing job ads, there’s no shame in saving a buck or three while eating and drinking to fill the void. These recently opened spots are right on board to offer you deals for every night of the week.

MONDAY
The spot: Square Bar & Grill, a laid-back tavern in Avondale.
The deal: $1 mini-pulled pork sandwiches and $4 selected craft beer drafts
The savings: $1-$3 per draft. The pulled pork minis are an off-menu special, but if you order three instead of the $8 full-size sandwich, you’ll save $5.

TUESDAY
The spot: Hot Woks Cool Sushi, serving up bargain bento boxes and booze in the South Loop.
The deal: Half-priced sake
The savings: $3-$7.50 per order

WEDNESDAY
The spot: Birchwood Kitchen, Wicker Park’s BYOB sandwich shop now serving hot burgers in addition to cold cuts.
The deal: Two-for-one burgers
The savings: $8-10

THURSDAY
The spot: Mary’s Rec Room, a sassy sports bar sibling to Hamburger Mary’s in Andersonville.
The deal: $3.50 pints from the on-site microbrewery in honor of Thirsty Thursdays.
The savings: 50 cents-$1 per draft

FRIDAY
The spot: Clybar and Grille, the Clybourn corridor’s most recently relaunched sports bar.
The deal: $20 meal package from 6-10 p.m., including Bud Light drafts, well drinks, house wine and an all-you-can-eat buffet featuring wings, mini-pizzas, mini-quiches and other snacks.
The savings: With drinks running $4-$7.50 and a dozen wings priced at $9.50, you’ll break even with two rounds and one trip to the buffet.

SATURDAY
The spot: The Rockhouse, a Lincoln Park bar working the rock-star image with pulp art on the walls and tatted-up staff behind the bar.
The deal: $3 Bud and Bud Light bottles, $5 Crystal Head vodka cocktails
The savings: $1-$2.50 per drink

SUNDAY
The spot: Division Ale House, an Irish-inspired pub serving up bangers, brewskies and brunch.
The deal: $5 PBR and Jameson shot combo, $7 build-your-own bloody mary bar
The savings: $1-$2.50 per drink

Carly Fisher is a Metromix special contributor. metromix@tribune.com

Read the article here.

Sep 28, 2008

Rock in the kitchen? Lost in the Supermarket: The Indie Rock Cookbook gets lost in translation

published in Venus Zine on 9/26/08

Melding food and Fenders, authors Kay Bozich Owens and Lynn Owens share a collection of their favorite bands' recipes in their book, Lost in the Supermarket, investigating what they eat and why. The concept is irresistible to those who feel as passionate about food as they do about music. Unfortunately, though the book mimics a cookbook in format, it relies heavily on the prestige of featured bands instead of serving as a culinary guide.

The book has an impressive line-up of notable bands — Sonic Youth, Animal Collective, Genesis P-Orridge, and Belle and Sebastian — making it a natural draw for any music fan. And though there is no claim of idol worship, the book's organization prioritizes a band’s reputation over culinary merit. The problem with this approach for a cookbook is that not all musicians are epicureans, or necessarily have a special relationship with food.

In this day and age, when both bands and cooking are the basis of hip, exclusive coteries, an indie rock cookbook seems like a hushed invitation into the intimate off-hours in a band’s life; the same intrigue that helped foster the popularity of MTV Cribs. The difference between Cribs and Lost in the Supermarket is that voyeurism may be suitable for an hour of cable television, but not when investing in a cookbook. Mainly, the Owenses do not convince the reader why she should try or even care about these recipes.

The book’s recipes often focus on the history of the band as opposed to their connection with the food, with a few snarky submissions, like Xiu Xiu’s “Tofu”: a self-explanatory wash-and-eat recipe without any direct commentary from the band; and Japanther’s “Ultra Healthy Hot Dog”: a peanut butter and banana sandwich. This isn’t to say that all of the recipes sound unappealing or have an ironic tone. Brian Viglione from the Dresden Dolls offers a home recipe for pasta sauce and an anecdote about its history in his family, while the Trachtenburg Family Slideshow Players share a “Good Morning Bread” recipe and a description of life in New York’s East Village — the type of intriguing entries that would have been an excellent focus for the cookbook.

Trying to cram too many good ideas into one book, or possibly facing a lack of compliance or interest on behalf of the bands, the Owens' project leaves much to be desired. Perhaps there are musicians who are good cooks or have a special relationship with food, but the Owenses had obvious difficulty finding them. And while many of these bands might be lost in the supermarket when it comes to cooking, the point of a cookbook is to make sure the reader isn’t.



ABOUT THE BOOK
Lost in the Supermarket: The Indie Rock Cookbook (Soft Skull Press)
By Kay Bozich Owens and Lynn Owens
192 pages
$17.95


Read the article here.

Sep 22, 2008

Carly Fisher loves the Black Cab Sessions

staff favorite for Venus Zine published on 9/22/08

At least two people recently asked me if I had been on Taxicab Confessions coked out of my mind in the backseat with a random dude. If anyone saw this episode, I’d like to clarify it wasn’t me. However, the bands on blackcabconfessions.com are readily identifiable and significantly less embarrassing, using a back of a taxi cab as a venue for an acoustic gig on the go. Notable indie acts such as Lykke Li, the Futureheads, the New Pornographers, and Spoon, are a few of the contributors to the project. Having just hit its 50th session in July 2008, the project is still truckin’ — er, cabbing.

Read the article here.

Sep 18, 2008

Carnitas El Paisa

commissioned for Centerstage, publishing date TBA

According to restaurant owner Atendidos por Barbarita, Carnitas El Paisa roughly translates to “meats, my friend,” which is essentially what you get at this authentic Mexican eatery — lots of it. And by “authentic,” we’re not talking about your run-of-the-mill taqueria. Carnitas El Paisa does offer a small selection of your average tacos, tortas and burritos, but patrons know to come in for the carnitas, chicharron and barbacoa. Unfortunately, Barbarita says most people who are not Mexican have no idea what the items are.

For the authentic Mexican food novice, here’s what to expect: most noticeably are the massive crispy pieces of deep-fried pork belly, which great customers as they walk in called chicharron. Then there are the carnitas, which are juicy pieces of pork that have been marinated for several hours, and barbacoa, which is steamed beef or goat. All dishes are available as entrees with rice, beans and tortillas for $9-$9.50, or sold by the pound. Unsurprisingly, vegetarians are looking at yet another rice-‘n’-beans or cactus salad night.

With only six or seven items featured, Carnitas El Paisa is deceptively simple. Barbarita says she will put in about seven hours of prep work on Friday and Saturday mornings as early as 3 a.m. or 4 a.m. and sometimes more depending on special orders. Despite a spacious and charming dining room, the restaurant is often quieter than one might expect. The reason being that business thrives on carry-out as opposed to dine-in, which is mainly how the restaurant manages to close as early as 6 p.m. on weeknights and 8 p.m. on the weekend. Although not nearly as popular as lunch or dinner, early risers can also stop in Carnitas El Paisa for breakfast — authentic Mexican, of course. “We serve breakfast,” Barbarita says. “But no pancakes.”

Hours: 9 a.m.-6 p.m. Monday-Friday; 7 a.m.-6 p.m. Saturday-Sunday; closed Tuesday