published in Buzz Weekly on 3/10/2005
Alone and starving on a bleak, Saturday afternoon, I talked my friend Allison into taking me to lunch, hoping she'd accompany me. She said she wouldn't join me, but didn't mind dropping me off somewhere in the vicinity of her errands. I settled with El Torero, a “blink-and-you’ll-miss-it” find amidst the vast array of non-descript restaurants and dingy gas stations. Located in the outskirts of west Champaign (or at least what I consider to be the outskirts, since it felt like it took forever and a half to get there from my campus-town Urbana residence), El Torero is perfect for any patron with low funds and a big appetite.
When I walked in, I noticed the seating arrangement was almost entirely booths. When asked how many would be dining, I responded, “One,” with a confident tone in my voice. I was a strong, independent woman. By chance, I was seated at the awkward and lonely table in between two booths and two couples. I casually flipped through the menu and noticed how affordable lunch entrees were. Ranging between $3.75 and $7.50, I had numerous and satiating options to choose from including, but not limited to, 10 combination platters. I decided to go on my server’s suggestion of Horchata and the Burrito Loco: a foot long burrito filled with guacamole, lettuce, pico de gallo, a choice of chicken, pork or beef, and topped with a creamy, white-cheese sauce. Curious about the difference between the Burrito Loco and the Super Burrito, my waiter informed me that the Burrito Loco had rice on the inside. The other burrito? Rice on the outside.
Seconds later, I was greeted with my horchata, as well as an overflowing supply of freshly deep-fried chips and salsa. El Torero’s horchata, a rice-water drink, was a deliciously deep combination of sweet and starchy flavors with a delightful authenticity reminiscent of home cooking. Of course, not by my mother, as I am not Mexican. A nice balance of chunkiness and juiciness, the salsa was probably some of the best I’ve ever eaten. Not too spicy, but definitely not devoid of flavor. They complemented the chips perfectly. I was impressed by El Torero’s attentive staff. The Horchata was never empty and the chip basket was always full.
As I waited for my meal, I let loose the superficial interest in my menu for a moment to take in my surroundings. The Mexican scenery backed by brightly colored walls were particularly charming. Along with the proper Spanish ballad playing softly in the background, I picked up a romanticized vision of a humble village in Mexico. But don’t doubt the exciting nightlife aspect El Torero. The contrasting Corona flags and neon lights decorating the bar are a healthy reminder that you are still in a college town. I attempted to listen to my neighboring table’s conversation, but they were too consumed with the task of stuffing their faces with the Burrito Loco, compensating for their lacking communication. I felt a little relief through this encounter, as sitting by myself was a lot less uncomfortable than sitting across from someone I had nothing to say to for an hour.
As fast as you can say the name of their specialty, “Speedy Gonzales,” I was face-to-face with the notorious Burrito Loco. It was monstrous; maybe the size of my stomach. I knew I was going to be harboring something big, like a child, and let me tell you, I do not like children and especially the idea of childbearing. At the same time, I saw this Burrito as a challenge, like climbing Everest with my mouth. And boy, was I ready. I would have preferred if there was less cheese on top, but the chef’s decision wasn’t unwarranted. The creamy cheese sauce was just the right accompaniment for the sturdy and thick Burrito Loco. I was also promised rice in the burrito, but there was none. I can only assume this was because there was no space left inside the 12 inch tortilla. Although the burrito was big enough for two, I consumed the entirety as I had no one to share it with. Perhaps if I had been dining with a responsive partner, unlike the table next to me, I would have taken half of it home to share left-overs. Oh well. If life gives you lemons, magically convert them into limes and drop one into a Corona at El Torero.
Despite the rice mishap and inconvenient access from campus, the restaurant left a favorable impression on me. It’s certainly worth the effort to find the restaurant if you’re in the mood for an adventurous dining excursion, or happen to have reliable transportation options available. Whether you are dining alone or with an unresponsive partner, El Torero’s affordable and tantalizing menu will keep you delightfully distracted.